Lights.
	Photogenic Photogen Powerlight 600 I have two of this AC operated work horse lights. The manufacture claims these 600 Watt Second (Joule) strobes have same output as most 1200 W.S. units. The flash output power and the modelling light brightness are adjustable by two slide controls on the back, and can be moved together to keep modelling light brightness similar to the flash brightness for the unit. They have a built in photo sensor to trigger the lamp when another flash fires, so only one camera sync cord or wireless release is usually needed STATUS: Active
	Photogenic Eclipse 60” umbrellas I have two, and are used with the above Powerlight units With the silver interior surface they reflex almost all the flash power and provide strong lighting, way more than required for modern digital cameras and fast lens. STATUS: Active
	Neewer 60" Shoot Through Umbrellas As these are shoot through, they provide a large even light source, a bit weaker light on the subject than the Photogenic  since they do not have a silver reflection, they however provide a more pleasing catch light in the subject's eyes. Almost like a softbox, only faster to setup STATUS: Active
	Crown Pro VS-201 strobe A lower power AC strobe. I usually have a snoot on it for giving some kick light to hair. STATUS: Active
	Honeywell 52A modelling slave Strobonar I have had a pair of these lights since the 1960’s. They still work (2017). Complete with the accessory kit which provided barn doors, white, green, red, blue, and dark grey lens in addition to the clear lens STATUS: Semi-active
	Metz 60CT1 "potato masher" This replaced my old Metz 202 flash. More power =bigger guide number, better auto exposure control, and instead of dumping the un-needed energy during the flash, a thyristor is used to stop the flow to the flash tube when needed and saves the energy for the next flash. Otherwise very similar. It uses the same batteries as the 202, including the old NICAD pack which occasionally gets new C cells put it. I also have a Metz 60-40 slave head that attaches to the power pack and give me a second light source, also fully automatic STATUS: Semi-active
Light Meters
	Minolta Flashmeter VI This meter reads ambient, flash or the combination. It works on the flash either corded or just detects when the flash goes off. It measures incident light with the white dome, replace that with a disk for reflected light, or use the lens and optical finder for a spot meter mode. Allow you to take a number of reading, and specify if those reading are high light, medium light or low light (shadow) areas. It comes up with the proper exposure values for the camera. I still use it with the studio strobes to verify the lighting ratios of each light, and gives me a quick starting aperture for the camera as well as balancing the lights. Since I am using digital bodies, I can review the result exposure and tweak a little. STATUS: Active
	Gossen Color Pro 3f colour temp meter This was really much more important in the film era, so it does not get used very often any more. It reads the colour temperature of the light and indicates the required correction filter to bring the colour balance into line with what the film requires. STATUS: Active
	Gossen Sixticolor Colour temp meter The predecessor to the above 3F meter, this one was first released in 1958. I got it used, did the same thing as the more modern version only in an analogue manner. Also it is nowhere near as sensitive to light as the new one. Worked very well in bright light, but for dimmer interior lights, you had to move right near the source. STATUS: SOLD
	Gossen Lunasix light meter This was my standard light meter for many years while shooting wedding. Since the Hasselblad gear did not have built in light meters. It could read reflected or incident light by moving the top covers. Most likely would work if I could get some mercury batteries for it. STATUS: Retired to display case
	Weston Master III British made light meter made 1956 to 1960. This was my upgraded meter as a teenager. It had a bit better performance than my old GE meter. Still works No batteries needed STATUS: Retired to display case
	GE DW-68 meter Very simple meter from 1950. This was my first good working meter in high school. It had removable hood that converted the meter to read incident light directly in footcandles. Still working No batteries required STATUS: Retired to display case
	Hanimex PR-85 Spot meter Got this one in high school. It had the long right angle telescope viewer that you looked through and when on target, press the needle release button on the rear to take reading. Unscrew the telescope unit, install the lens cone like unit and it reads reflected light at about 30 degrees view. Swap that for the dome and you have an incident light meter. Sweet. STATUS: it died
	Bewi Zoom spot meter This was from the mid 1970’s. It would take a reading over whatever area you zoomed the viewfinder to, So you could take a larger area, or zoom down to get reading of 1 degree area. I used this a lot for wedding work, to meter church windows and other places where I could not walk up and take reading with the Lunasix meter. When I got the Minolta flash meter 6, I traded this one in as most of my gear had built in TTL metering including spot metering, and this thing took mercury cells. STATUS: SOLD
Tripods, Monopods and Heads
	Gitzo G1228 Mountaineer carbon tripod One of the very first carbon fibre tripods, I got this back in about 1995. It is still my favourite tripod. I have an accessory very short column that will pop into the top for at ground level shooting. And I have covered the legs with foam covers usually used for bicycle handlebars. Add a carry strip, and the added bubble level to the column, and your ready to go.   I often put about 20 lbs of gear on top with no issue (1dx body, 600mm f4, 2X converter, gimbal mount and a flash gun., it adds up) STATUS: Active
	Culliman Magic 2 Tripod I bought this one back in about 1990.  All metal, it folds very flat, taking up about 13.7" x 1.5" and about 2.5 lbs.  It can be extended up to 57".  The one leg unscrews, and fits on the bottom of the centre column to make a monopod.  I usually use it with the Sirui K-20X ball head instead of the one that came with it.  I have also added a metal loop on the bottom of the elevator to let me attach my bag to bottom for added weight while shooting. STATUS: Active
	Gitzo G0011 Table Top all metal Tripod I got this one back in about 1996.  All metal, it extends from 7" to 19".  The little tripod will take a load of 5.5 lbs.  I generally have a small Manfrotto ballhead on the top (head came from a Manfrotto 331 system for a monopod).  I generally have used this in the past as a little travel pod, with a full sized SLR camera and L series wide angle lens on it.  Although it has also be very useful in the studio as a support for a small strobe like the Honeywell 52A as a low floor light behind the subject to illuminate the background. STATUS: Active
	Arca-Swiss-Monoball-B1-Ballhead Still the best ball head. Strong, good for 90 Lb. load, reasonably light (1.7 lbs), Purchased this to work with the Gitzo carbon tripod, having tried some other small ball heads and was unhappy with their performance. Almost all my bodies and lens have an Arca Swiss quick release plate on them. One of the great features is not only can you set how loose the ball can be released (small surface knob on face of big release knob) but it self tightens the more off centre you go, so it tries to keep from damaging the camera/lens if you should let go and the camera tries to dump over. STATUS: Active
	Sirui K-20X Ball Head This one is way smaller and lighter (0.9 lbs.) than the Monoball.  It fits nicely on my smaller tripods and is rated to take up to 55 lbs.  Plus it has two levels.  It does have a tension adjustment knob on the main release knob to restrict how loose the ball can be set, similar to what the monoball has.  But not the self tightening ball shape STATUS: Active
	NEST NT-530 carbon fibre gimbal head I mostly use this head with the 600mm F4 lens. It allows me to follow birds, planes or other wild life, but has adjustable drag/locking knobs and balance positioners so I can let go of the camera/lens and it just stays there. I also have used it with the 300mm while shooting videos of aerobatic aircraft. This replace a Wimberley sidekick that either attached to the Arca B1 monoball or I had made a special dedicated mount for it. This is a bit larger, but because it is taller, allows me to shot almost straight up. STATUS: Active
	Really Right Stuff lever operated quick release clamp for AS plates I have a couple of these. One sits on a monopod, the other is attached were needed. Very fast on/off the monopod without concern of camera coming loose. STATUS: Active
	Gitzo G1560 Aluminum monopod/walking stick A very strong, and light monopod. Constructed of aircraft grade aluminum. It is very rugged and light. I have hiked in many parts of the world and this is my hiking stick. It has a small ball head on the top, hidden under a plastic cover. Pull the top off, attach camera, shot the video or use the telephotos and done. STATUS: Active
Bags and Cases
	LowePro dryzone 200 backpack A carry on sized backpack that is waterproof, it floats The outer shell is a black re-enforced vinyl like material with a waterproof zipper. I can fit a 300mm f2.8, 5D body 7D body, 16/35 f2.8 lens, 70/200 f2.8 lens, two teleconverters, a GoPro, small point and shoot, and on the outside room for a small laptop (not in the waterproof area) and other travel stuff. STATUS: Active
	LowePro lens trekker 600 Designed to take large lens, I can fit the 600mm f4 lens with a teleconverter and body attached into the back. Put the tripod on the outside. If I am using a small head like the sidekick, then it will fit in the lower pocket at the rear. Otherwise the big carbon fiber gimbal head sits in its own back hung on the back. A rain resistant cover is attached that can be pulled over the case in the event of rain STATUS: Active
	LowePro Stealth report 650 AW An oversized shoulder bag, carries a smaller laptop, space for a couple of pro bodies and lens. Stuff can be gotten to through a zip opening in the top without having to fully open the bag. I usually use this at event, and smaller shoots. STATUS: Active
	Kata 3n1-20 sling pack This is a bag that can be used as either a left shoulder sling, right shoulder sling or with both straps and waist band as a backpack More than small enough for carry on. I have put: a 1Dx 16/35 f2.8, plus 7D2 with booster, 16/35 f2.8 lens, 70/200 f2.8 lens, 2x teleconverter GoPro, Garmin GPS, small audio recorder, spare batteries, small waterproof point and shoot Filters, and a few other odds and ends. About the only change I made was to add a chest strap to keep the two shoulder straps together when using it as a backpack. STATUS: Active
	Lowepro Pro Tactic BP 450 AW II This is the new travel bag. About as large as you can take as carry on for a plane. It is lighter than the dryzone 200, and has a few good features such as from the top you can access a body with telephoto attached, from one of the side accesses you can grab a body with a wide angle, and from the other side access you can get misc. gear. Another great design idea was to have the large opening cover or lid be on the shoulder harness side. So when wearing the pack, if the main zipper fails, not much can fall out. It also takes a mid. sized laptop in the cover. It includes an all weather cover that can be pulled over the case to keep rain off.  So far it has worked fine. Takes the street and field components STATUS: Active
	LowePro Street and Field system I have loved this system for decades. There are many various lens tubes and cases for gear.  All can be attached to various system belts (either thin or thick), vests and onto their various backpacks.  The vest or the strap set can be attached to the large lens trekker 600 to make it into a backpack instead of over the shoulder. The larger lens tubes can be used with a shoulder strap or attached onto a pack, belt or vest. STATUS: Active
	LowePro lens exchange lens case I have a short one (100) and a long one (200). They fit either on you normal belt or better on a wide belt from LowePro. Quick single pull unzip, take one lens off you camera and land in the open section of the two lens spaces. Take second lens put on camera. Zip case closed. Allows lens changing when you have no place to set stuff down. STATUS: Active
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